A Little About Us

You call or book online, we give you a two-hour arrival window, and we text when the truck is on the way. Before anyone pulls a dryer out, we look at where your laundry room sits, where the duct terminates, and how long the run is. Then we tell you what the job will cost and why. If the run is short and clean and you don't need us, we say that too and charge you nothing for the look. That happens more than you'd think with older ranch homes on the south and west sides of Peoria, where the dryer backs to an exterior wall and the whole duct is four to eight feet.

Most of the housing here is on concrete slab, single-story or two-story, with the laundry room off a hallway or next to the garage entry instead of on an outside wall. That layout is the core vent problem in this area. The dryer sits in the middle of the floor plan, so the duct has to climb into the attic and out a roof jack, or run laterally fifteen to thirty feet through soffit framing to a side wall. Attic runs bake at 140 to 170 degrees in summer, and that heat dries lint into a hard crusted layer on the duct wall instead of letting it blow through. Plenty of 1990s and 2000s tract builds used flexible foil or thin-wall semi-rigid up there, which sags between joists and packs lint at every low spot. We bring a rotary brush on a sectional vent line long enough for a full attic run, a vacuum at the dryer end to catch what comes loose, and a meter to read airflow at the hood before we start and again when we finish. You see both numbers. We work behind gas and electric dryers, stacked units, and the pedestal washer-dryer pairs that make the connection hard to reach, and we reconnect and test the dryer before we leave.

The other calls we get are hood problems. Roof-terminated vents take direct sun all year, so plastic caps go UV-brittle and crack, and monsoon dust and windblown debris pack the hood solid. On the older ranch stock, louvered hoods often have pest screen added behind them, which chokes airflow no matter how clean the duct is. Humidity is low enough here that wet lint is rarely the issue. What we find is dust and lint compaction plus heat-degraded foil. Sometimes cleaning fixes it. Sometimes the duct itself is the problem, and the honest answer is repair or a rerun in rigid metal, which is installation work and priced differently. What moves the number on a cleaning here is run length, whether we have to get on the roof, and how badly the duct material has broken down inside. If you're not sure which of those applies to your house, start with an inspection and we'll tell you what we see.